tellaro & san terenzo

Wednesday morning I woke up to overcast skies. Since I was feeling a little sluggish and since I was not sure what the weather would do, I decided to wait until Thursday for Cinque Terre. I checked at the front desk about the bus schedule to Tellaro (a little town nearby). The man at the desk told me that the bus left for Tellaro every 30 minutes. I had a leisurely breakfast and then got ready and walked down to the bus stop in the piazza. I bought my ticket at the tabbacheria stand and then waited for the bus.

Buses are often late in Italy, but it seemed like I was waiting much longer than normal for a late bus. Finally I went to look at the schedule posted on a sign near the bus stop and realized that the time I thought the bus should arrive (which also was the time the hotel told me) only occurred on Saturdays. For some reason a few 30 minute time periods only occurred on Saturdays and so during these hours, the bus only came hourly. One thing that often happens when waiting for a bus that is late is that you often end up meeting others that are also waiting for the bus. I talked to the sweetest older woman who also thought that the bus came at 10:30 (and she lived in Tellaro). She began to tell me about the town. She said it was very small and that there were not many people who lived there. When the bus finally arrived, a big group boarded and then we were off. The ride took about 15 mins.

When we arrived in Tellaro, the woman took me on a short tour of the town before she headed on home. The town was quite charming with a little beach area at the bottom of the stairs and beautiful views. I bought some focaccia with tomatoes for lunch and hung out on a rock down by the water until the next bus came.

(pics of Tellaro)

After returning to Lerici, I spent some time hanging out in the center. Later in the afternoon, I decided to go to the Castello/Museo Geopaleontologico...a museum I could have skipped. All the rooms had dinosaur info/large fake dinosaurs/old rocks/etc. The views though were nice.

(view of Lerici from the castle/castello)

To get to the castle, you could either walk up TONS of stairs or take the elevator which was located inside a tunnel. Since I had been doing quite a bit of walking, I chose the elevator. Interestingly, when the elevator door opened, there inside was a woman sitting by the buttons ready to collect your money for the ride up. You could either purchase a one way ticket or a roundtrip ticket. I bought the roundtrip for 1 euro.

After my short tour of the museum, I walked to the next town, San Terenzo.

(pics of San Terenzo)

This was another little town with a beach and little shops. On the way, I finally found the tourist "i" information booth. It was located at the edge of Lerici closer to San Terenzo (not the best place for those staying in Lerici). The woman was very helpful and gave me lots of info on many of the towns nearby. San Terenzo was a lovely little beach town. Both San Terenzo & Lerici are located across the bay from each other and so you can see one from the other.

(looking at Lerici from San Terenzo & San Terenzo from Lerici)

After spending about an hour exploring the town, I caught the bus back to Lerici. I was not feeling that well when I returned and so I got some food and ate in my room Wednesday evening.

ciao!

portovenere

This morning, the sky was a little overcast. I decided to take the boat to Portovenere after having a delicious breakfast at the hotel. The boat ride was wonderful...a nice breeze, plenty of room on board, and beautiful views.

(Portovenere from the boat)

Portovenere is another little coastal town. I walked around town, took more pictures, and then found a place to have lunch. I first went to a restaurant recommended by Katia but I guess I did not look rich enough as the person seating people told me that they were not serving anymore (even though I just saw him seat someone). Also, many restaurants are not big fans of people eating alone or at least I get this feeling. I then decided to go back up to the street behind the main street and found a great little place to eat. I had a nice conversation with a mother and daughter from England who are on a cruise and had the day to explore Italy while their boat docked in La Spezia. I had a caprese salad and a delicious focaccia pesto and cheese sandwich. It ended up being a great choice for lunch.

(town of Portovenere)

After a little more shopping and some advice to a nice shopkeeper that wanted to know the best island to visit in Hawaii for hanging out at a beach, I took the boat back to Lerici. I hung out on a rock catching a few more rays and watching some children play together in the water. It is so interesting how children are all the same and even though they speak a different language, they still pretty much interact the same way. On my way back to my hotel to shower and change, I stopped for a gelato for the walk up to the hotel.

For dinner, I had the most wonderful meal at a restaurant called Ristorante il Frantoio, a restaurant recommended by friends of Katia. I don’t know the name of the dish I had as forgot to bring a pen to write down the name & the bill only said 1 primo. It was a ravioli dish...but not your normal ravioli dish. The pasta dough for the ravioli included a fish ingredient which made the pasta a black color. The ravioli were shaped like fish! Inside was some sort of cheese and the sauce was a red sauce with little chunks of fish.

(delicious ravioli dish)

The food was wonderful but unfortunately I was full and could not order anything else. I can never seem to eat more than one course.

(view from my room - merged picture)

well...time for soccer and bed...am thinking of taking the boat to the different villages in Cinque Terre tomorrow and want to catch the first boat of the day...

buona notte...

ciao

arrival in lerici

Monday morning, I had a quick breakfast with Francesco's parents and then I was off to the train station. I was glad that I made a reservation as there was only 1 first class car on this train and all but the last 2 compartments of seats are now pre-reserved. At the stop after I boarded the train, more people got on and an argument began. I think it had something to do with where to put the luggage and other people already int he compartment in the un-reserved compartment. All I understood was this lady continually repeating that she was not interested (in something??). Other than that, the train ride went without incident. When I arrived in La Spezia, I found the automatic ticket machine inside the station and bought my tickets for my next journey on Friday. This journey will be my LONG train journey for this trip...something I am not looking forward to. I made a reservation (the train I will be taking is the same train I was on from Empoli to La Spezia).

After buying my train tickets, I searched for the place to purchase the bus ticket. To reach Lerici, you can either take a taxi or take the city bus. The ride takes 35 minutes and so I decided to try the bus (I will be taking a taxi on the return trip). The bus was pretty crowded when I boarded, but I managed to find a seat and also store my larger roll on bag right behind the seat in the handicapped wheelchair area. Luckily there were no wheelchairs on board! I usually am not a fan of buses as I never know which stop is my stop (especially when going to a new area). I read ahead of time that my stop would be the last stop on the route and I counted the number of stops on the schedule posted at the bus stop. As the bus went along, more and more people boarded and no one got off. Also, the bus was stopping at way more stops than I counted. I also read that it took about 35 mins to reach Lerici on the bus and so my next strategy was to watch the time. Finally as we reached the coast area, people started to get off. Then we reached a stop near Lerici (about 5 mins away) and the bus driver told us that we all had to get off as this would be his last stop. Another bus would come by to take us to Lerici. Luckily, a very nice lady also was going to Lerici and so I stuck by her to figure out when to get off. When we boarded the second bus, the bus driver told us that we needed to go on a different route...a tour of the Lerici area! The lady was pretty funny with her comments about how we were now on a 1 hour bus ride.

Finally as we reached the coast area, people started to get off. Then we reached a stop near Lerici (about 5 mins away) and the bus driver told us that we all had to get off as this would be his last stop. Another bus would come by to take us to Lerici. Luckily, a very nice lady also was going to Lerici and so I stuck by her to figure out when to get off. When we boarded the second bus, the bus driver told us that we needed to go on a different route...a tour of the Lerici area! The lady was pretty funny with her comments about how we were now on a 1 hour bus ride. As we rode all around the area of Lerici, through a tunnel, up and down streets, we finally came to an area above Lerici where there was a bus on the side of the rode with people waiting outside. The bus had broken down and our (2nd bus) was sent to pick up the stranded passengers. There was quite a commotion as we stopped to pick them up (mainly from the people on board still waiting to arrive in Lerici). We then headed to the main town area of Lerici.

When we reached the stop that appeared to be the main stop in the center of the town, about 7 ladies, most of them much older, found out that I was headed to Hotel Doria in Lerici. When we got off the bus (which ended up NOT being my stop), the ladies were all very concerned about me and even asked the bus driver if he could take me to my hotel! I told them I was fine and would find the hotel. One lady accompanied me to the area where the stop I was supposed to get off of was located (Piazza Garibaldi - the main piazza). It was downhill and a very short walk so it was not a big deal. Then she told me to find a carabinieri or go into a store to find out for sure where the hotel was. She left me once she felt I was safe without her. Lerici is a very peaceful town and not a town where one should be worried about someone not knowing where her hotel was located but she was very sweet to be so concerned. I saw a sign pointing up a street with many stairs to my hotel about a minute after I was on my own. By the time I reached the hotel, I was huffing and puffing...a great workout!

The people at this hotel are extremely friendly and helpful. My room faces the ocean and has a wonderful view and great balcony. I took advantage of the sun and balcony and caught up on my laundry.

(view from my room - merged picture)

(my hotel- Hotel Doria - yellow x on my balcony)

Then I wandered the town, took pictures, and sat on some rocks by the water to catch a few rays. There are rocks to sit on, then a pay beach, and then further down towards San Terenzo, a free beach.

After an afternoon gelato, I headed back to my hotel, took a short nap, and then watched the 2nd half of the Italy - Australia match. A long 0-0 match with the winning goal during the last minute of the game on a penalty kick. The town erupted in cheers!! For dinner, I ate at a very delicious little restaurant in town. I had pesto pasta and focaccia col recco...my 2 favorite Ligurian treats! I wandered around the town some more and took a few more pictures and then headed back up to my hotel. The walk back up to the hotel continues to make me huff and puff and so I plan carefully before leaving.

(pics of Lerici)

I am now on the hotel's computer which is free. A mac with a keyboard which is different from other keyboards I have used while in Italy. Luckily, I know my way around a mac and found a way to switch to an American keyboard...the only hitch is that I have to memorize where all the keys are.

hope all is well with everyone.

CIAO!!

info on Lerici

Since I have never been to Lerici, I do not have any photos to share but I can tell you a little about Lerici from what I have read and share some websites.

Lerici is a resort town located on the southern part of the Ligurian Coast also known as the Italian Riviera. It is nicknamed the Bay of Poets because Byron, Shelley and Keats all hung out here. Lerici is not on the train line but can be reached by local bus from La Spezia.

I will be staying at the Doria Park Hotel. This is my "splurge" hotel as I have reserved a deluxe room with balcony and sea view.

I do not feel comfortable linking personal websites and so the only site where I could find pictures is the Commune di Lerici website which is only in Italian. You don't need to read the page though, just click on each picture for a better view.